Marc Jacobs is undeniably one of today’s best fashion weather vanes. Whether the new fashion trend is all about crazy colors or structured shapes, he’s always all over it before the rest of the fashion world has even heard about it. For the Fall 2008 collection of Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs took a very different direction from his last collection.
Whereas Vuitton of Spring 2008 had lots of colors and layers thrown together, this season’s collection looks more grown up and put together. Most of the looks have a decidedly retro feel – something that Dior is also doing, albeit with another decade. Jacobs combined 80’s outfits with a lot of technical stuff that, according to him, should exaggerate shapes. The muted color palette – it’s composed mostly of grays, blacks, browns and a few other pastel colors – also suggest that extra maturity. Even the accessories lost some of their exuberance, with the bags showing branding only on surfaces that were embossed.
A profusion of pleats came strutting down the runway along with skirts and coats in heavy fabrics. Almost all the cuts looked generally in line with the eighties theme: high waists, loose tapered pants and high necklines were all present in the retro style roll call. The pump wedges that most of the models were wearing served as one of the few explicit clues as to the novelty of the collection. It was the flow and movement of the clothes – particularly the skirts – that gave the collection its modern twist.
The eveningwear of this season’s Vuitton maintained the sobriety but brought in more chic with the details. A rather unusual long-sleeved dress and a frizz-collared number provided some highlights to an otherwise tame, technicals-heavy collection.


















































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